I can’t say that I understand the neighborhood we are staying in. It’s called Campo de Ourique, and it’s a center Lisbon neighborhood filled with 3 to 5 story residential buildings, built at various times over the course of the 20th century. It’s described as a middle class neighborhood with a number of (mainly French) expats and as a neighborhood in the middle of tourist Lisbon, but not a tourist destination.

It’s also filled with small stores, small groceries, small patisseries and small restaurants. In fact, everything is small here. I am one of the tallest.

For the last three days, at about 8 a.m., I have joined the Great Lisbon Decent Pastry Search. So far, no luck. Delicious coffee and not so delicious pastries. Now, every patisserie, and there is on most blocks, bakes their own goods. And they have found out how to make them all taste the same, at least in Campo de Ourique. How they do that is a state secret, I am sure.

There are two kinds of patisseries . The first is very modest, with tables outside for maybe 10. They are occupied by men of a certain age, who enter, order coffee, are very happy to see friends, and who sit down, sil their drink and become glued to their smart phones. Some add a cigarette, that is beyond the logistical capacity of the others.

The other patisseries are bigger, cleaner, sleeker and more modern. They are visited by women, more than men, in a ratio of about 2 to 1. They have mastered the art of increasing the variety of pastries visually, while still having them all taste the same. A deep state secret.

A diversion: is there a Deep State in Portugal? Is there any state here? Hard to say, at least in Lisbon, where the important thing in the world is making sure that your pastry doesn’t stand out and cause too much attention.

Okay, back to the Gulbenkian Museum. Gulbenkian was Armenian, born in the Ottoman Empire, spent much of his life in London (where he is buried) and his last years in Lisbon (where he died). He was a masterful collector and philanthropist, as well as the man who controlled virtually all of the oil in Iraq. His will provided for a museum and foundation.

Just as there are two kinds of patisseries in Lisbon, there are two kinds of museums. One kind consists of museums founded and controlled by the will of a collector – the Gulbenkian, the Freer in Washington, the Demenil in Houston and so forth. The other kind are not .

The art in the collector’s museums are picked very carefully and lovingly and are easy to appreciate. The art in other museums? Not necessarily so. Often those museums contain works by famous artists that are not their best. They are the pieces that donors are happy to get rid of. Don’t believe me? Okay, then. Name me one piece of art in a collector’s museum that is only mediocre. See? You can’t do it.

The Gulbenkian is a wonderful museum, both in design and content. And the content is eclectic. From ancient Egyptian and Middle Eastern pieces to Greek and Roman sculpture, Iranian rugs and pottery, ceramics from Iznik, rugs from Bursa, Chinese ceramic, Japanese prints, European painting and sculpture and furniture, Lalique glass.

We saw three special exhibits. One terrific display of 18th and 19th century Japanese prints. One of contemporary Portuguese art, and of the sculpture of Giacometti and a Portuguese sculptor named Chaves.

We were there for 3 hours. Could have been there longer .

Today is a very hot Monday. Most museums are closed. I am told the plan is to lounge in the apartment this morning, and take an Uber to another neighborhood for lunch and vintage shopping. That excites me. I need more stuff. For my museum. After all, I am a collector.