THIS IS A FASCINATING POST, BUT THE PROBLEM MIGHT BE SOLVED.
Brief background: You may recall that we leased a new 2026 Prius LE and picked it up a week ago today. It is a snazzy red car, and the dealer, Jim Coleman in Potomac, had to search for one, found one outside of Philadelphia at another Toyota dealer and sent someone up a week ago Friday to drive it down. (I wrote about the car earlier this week in this blog.)
We traded in a 2019 Prius LE, which we owned, and the value of that car enabled us to have a pretty good lease deal – about $250 a month for 36 months. I actually think they should have given us more for the car, but to avoid aggravation, I only talked them up $1000 from their original offer. I didn’t want to argue nickels and dimes, and I didn’t want to spend my time shopping other dealers, and this is the 6th car we got from Jim Coleman, so I made the deal.
I did not like our salesman, but that’s who we got; I found him rather ignorant about a lot of things he should have known about, but he told us that he had worked for Coleman for 17 years. He is from Nepal and his English was not quite fluent and I put his verbal confusion to that. His boss (I don’t know what the title is, something like “sales manager”) told us that he didn’t want to send someone 150 miles away to get the car unless we signed the lease agreement first, telling us that, if the car did not meet our satisfaction, we didn’t have to take possession. I said that was fine (I trusted Jim Coleman) and signed the lease agreement with one line left out – that line was the odometer reading, which our salesman said he would fill in when he brought the car down.
That was last Friday, and last Saturday we went in to pick up the car (it looked like it should) and sign the many other pieces of paper that required a signature.
As I said in my post last week, although our 2019 Prius and our new 2026 Prius were the same model, they were far from the same car, and especially the dashboard was entirely different and I had to learn new everything. The screen about the steering wheel was crowded with all sort of information – perhaps too much. On the lower left edge of the screen was the figure “160”, which was a mileage reading, and I assumed was the odometer reading. It made sense, since this was a new car just driven down from Philadelphia, about 140 miles from DC.
Throughout the week, each time I drove the car, I learned something else about the display and controls. Most of my concentration was on the GPS function, and the radio and Sirius settings. I drove about 120 miles over the course of the first six days, and the “odometer” setting as expected increased to close to 300.
Yesterday, I took the 400+ page user manual and went through to see what more I could learn. To my surprise, I learned that there was an odometer button on the dashboard, through which I could go from the full odometer setting to specific trip settings. It, and another button controlling the brightness of the dashboard panel, is located away from all of the other controls, and is in fact hidden from sight by the steering wheel. In other words, you have to look for it to find it, but once you find it, it is right there.
I pushed that odometer button to see how many trips I could record, and saw I could record the current trip, and two others. This solved a problem I had because, especially on road trips, I use all those buttons, to see how far I had gone since the last stop, how far that day, and how far the entire trip. Then, I pushed the button one more time, knowing that would get me to the full odometer reading which I assumed would be about 300.
The reading was more like 9600 miles!!!
I went back to the documents I signed on Saturday, and the dealer inserted the number 200 whenever asked the odometer reading on several documents, including some which are recorded with the DC motor vehicle office and one which says “Federal law (and State law, if applicable) requires that you state the mileage upon transfer of ownership. Failure to complete or file a false statement may result in fines and/or imprisonment.” In then states that the “odometer now reads 200 (no tenths) miles….”.
I have written the Coleman business manager, who led us through the paper work, and asked him what the next step was. It is now about 11 a.m. on Saturday and I have not heard back. Maybe he is not in today; maybe he is trying to figure out first what happened.
I actually have no problem with the car (even with the 9000 miles), as it is a three year lease and not a purchase. But as I spent a great deal of last night tossing and turning and trying to figure out how to approach this, I find a number of problems and can not just say “no problem”. It is a problem.
Here are the things I have come up with. If I forgot anything, let me know.
- We have totally inaccurate information certified to public agencies (in addition to my contract with Coleman), and they are exposed to disciplinary action and possible criminal responsibility.
- Our three year lease agreement provides for 36,000 miles before we have to pay 1 1/2 dollars for each extra mile. If we drive 12,000 miles a year, when we turn the car in the mileage will be at about 45,000, and the documents will show us responsible for extra mileage charts.
- On one of the documents (perhaps it is the one that transfers title), Coleman had a choice of putting an “X” in a box that says “new” or a box that says “old”. They put the “X” in “new”.
- We have been charged for leasing a new car, not a used car, and I think almost 10,000 miles on a car makes it used. No question about that. I think our lease price must be adjusted. Where to adjust it, I don’t know. Our payments are now about $260 a month. They had told me that without the trade-in or an up front payment, they would be about $600 a month. That would be about $7200 a year, rather than $3200 a year, a difference of $4,000. Maybe a used car knocks 20% of the value, so the $3200 would be reduced by about $1440 a year? That would bring our monthly payment from $260 to about $150 a month. Any one have other thoughts on this one?
- The lease says that we have the typical Toyota new car warranty, which would be 3 years, or 36,000 miles. The 3 years hasn’t changed, but again we would probably drive about 45,000 miles over the three years, so need an extension to the warranty period.
- Each lease agreement has a “buy-out” price, representing the amount that the lessor can pay if they want to take full title to the car. We bought on the lease on our 2019 in 2022. The buy-out price would also have to be adjusted to reflect a car that already had over 9,000 miles on it.
- We obviously don’t know who has been driving the car over the past year. My bet would be that it was someone who worked at/owned the dealership. But we don’t know the history of the car – we don’t know the maintenance history, or if it had been involved in any accidents. That, too, is important to know.
Going back to the title of this post, buying a car should be easy. Very easy. I have no idea what Coleman will suggest we do. Every option is complicated.
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