I do like Chinese food. Or at least, having never been to China, I like the Chinese food that I have eaten outside of China. I was thinking about that this afternoon, when I was having lunch at Pike Kitchen in Rockville. I guess it is strange that I was thinking about Chinese food today, because my chicken yakitori was Japanese, not Chinese, but Pike Kitchen is an Asian restaurant, where they serve Chinese and Japanese and Korean food. And my thoughts were all about Chinese.
As a young child, I don’t remember ever going to a Chinese restaurant. At some point in my high school years, I discovered the Lotus Room on Brentwood Blvd in Richmond Heights MO, and I went there again and again. I assume St. Louis had other Chinese restaurants but they were never part of my life. And when I went to the Lotus Room, I don’t really remember what I ordered, but I guarantee that it didn’t include anything out of the very ordinary.
My most memorable meal at the Lotus Room was when a cousin of mine was in town from Indiana and we went for dinner. He was a second cousin, my age, and I had only met him once or twice before. I remember when the waitress asked him what he wanted, and he said he would take the “flied lice”. I looked at him with unbelievable shock. He, and from all visible aspects, the waitress, were nonplussed. As you might imagine, I have not seen, nor spoken to, this particular cousin since.
When I was at Harvard, I went out to eat only now and then, and I did go to a few Chinese restaurants in the neighborhood. I remember one called the Hong Kong. I just looked it up and it is still there, 65 or so years later. In fact, it has been there since 1954. Gemini calls it a “no-frills, casual, and energetic neighborhood staple popular with…….and college students”. Sounds about right. Gemini also talks about the popularity of their “communal cocktails”, including their “signature Scorpion bowl”. Glad I knew nothing about that.
Between my second and third year at college, I spent the summer with three (still) friends traveling through Europe. Then, and more recently, I remember wondering why everyone praised the food in Paris. I never found it to my liking – a thin, overcooked steak with “french” fries? It seems that that was what anyone ever ate, except now and then an omelet. I remember one night persuading my friends to go to a Chinese restaurant, where I had by far the best meal of our Parisian stay. To be honest, I also wanted to go to that restaurant out of curiosity. It had never occurred to me that I would find a Chinese restaurant in Paris. I think I thought they were only in the United States. I guess, they also had them in China, but as China was off-limits to Americans (in fact, we did not even recognize China – not sure where we thought we would land if we crossed the Pacific south of Japan and Korea), I am not sure that I ever thought about there being restaurants in China. After all, did people even live there? Didn’t they all grow their own rice?
I remember a small Chinese restaurant near the Yale campus in New Haven, a nice, quiet place in an old townhouse or brownstone, where there never seemed to be very many customers. I don’t remember my first meal there, but I remember my second. It was Thursday, November 26, 1964, both Thanksgiving and my birthday. I had stayed in New Haven, turning down an invitation to spend the holiday with a friend’s family in Boston, in order to study. I don’t remember studying, I just remember being alone, as everyone else seemed to have vanished. No restaurants seemed to be open on Thanksgiving – my breakfast and lunch came from Law School vending machines. But that evening, I found that this Chinese restaurant was open. I went and had a nice dinner (no turkey), and they were happy that I came, because I seemed to be the one and only customer of the evening.
It wasn’t until I got to Washington that I became a regular customer of Chinese restaurants. Since I have been here now 57 years, I can’t say that I remember the names of most of the Chinese restaurants that I ate at on a regular basis. There was the Court of the Mandarins downtown (remember the tall, thin elegant host?), and there was a restaurant on Lee Highway in Arlington. Neither is still in existence.
The Court of the Mandarins was an fancy place for lunch, and the Arlington restaurant became my go-to Chinese restaurant when I was living in Southwest Washington. That requires one piece of explanation. When I moved to DC in 1969, my entire life was centered in Southwest Washington. I lived there on 4th Street, I worked there on 7th Street, and most of my friends lived there. At that time, the newly rebuilt Southwest had virtually no retail or commercial enterprises, so you had to go elsewhere. For reasons I can’t really explain, I did not go into the areas of Northwest Washington with which I am now so familiar, and I certainly didn’t drive through the city to go to Montgomery County or Prince George’s County. Instead, for everything including groceries, I crossed the river and went to Virginia.
How I found this particular restaurant, I am not sure. Why I decided it was the best Chinese restaurant around (I was probably the only one who thought that), I have no real idea. I do remember one trip to the restaurant with my father, who was visiting. I remember that I ordered something that was somewhat exotic, and that my father ordered beef chop suey.
At that time, I was driving my 1968 Pontiac Firebird which, through no fault of mine, became quite dented and scratched. I really liked that car, but my father thought it was an embarrassment. How, he asked, can you ask a girl on a date and then expect her to get into this car and want to see you ever again? I was outraged at his remark (which was probably correct, as far as the facts went), and responded: That is not a problem at all, but I can’t imagine going on a date with a girl to a Chinese restaurant and ordering beef chop suey. No one would accept another date with me if I did that.
The ride home was silent.
In later years, when our children were young, we went to Mr. L’s and Sun, a Jewish/Chinese restaurant located across the street from where Politics and Prose is now located. A unique place indeed, that lasted, as I recall, until Mr. L. himself died suddenly on Yom Kippur, making me ask all sorts of theological questions.
A family-owned restaurant, Shanghai Garden, was located down the street from our house on Connecticut Avenue near Albemarle. With my family, we went there almost weekly. It had opened in 1972 by a Shanghai born chef who had worked at Trader Vic’s (I think, Trader Vic’s, certainly not Trader Joe’s), and his son Ray, and Ray’s two sisters (whose names I don’t remember – yes, I do, one was Lilly), were our waiters and friends. Actually, Ray’s real name wasn’t Ray and Lilly’s wasn’t Lilly, but these were their “American” names that they used at the restaurant. Ray took one day off each week, and ate pizza, his favorite food.
In 2007, when I turned 65, Edie had a surprise birthday party for me at Shanghai Garden. I remember a weird night. Edie said she was going out to eat dinner with a friend (something she never did), and, geez, it was my birthday, and Michelle (if I remember correctly) told me she wanted to go out with me on my birthday, and let’s go to Shanghai Garden. As we walked toward the restaurant, I looked in the window and saw my cousin Alison inside. “What a coincidence”, I thought. It turns out that we had taken over the place.
Shanghai Garden closed in 2013 or 2014 – not sure what happened to Ray or his family.
Since then, my Chinese restaurant experiences have mainly been lunches (if you want to know why, send me a private message). As Covid was vanishing, and I felt comfortable leaving the house, I decided to find out who had the best kung pao chicken, and probably ate at about 50 Chinese restaurants (most of them were carry outs) over the course of a year. The best kung pao chicken? A restaurant in Rockville. But my overall conclusion? I didn’t like kung pao chicken.
Today, I eat regularly with one friend at Full Key in Wheaton MD, and with another at Shanghai Lounge in Georgetown. When I am in Rockville for my many Haberman meetings, I often stop at Pike Kitchen, or at one of another half dozen or so Chinese restaurants on or just off Rockville Pike. Michelle has introduced me to Yu Noodles on Gude Drive, and they are about to open a closer branch a mile or so from our house.
To end this, I remember one other Chinese restaurant I once stopped in. It was in/on Puerto Rico, and it was inland, north of the city of Ponce, which is on the island’s southern coast. It was in a rural area, poor and under-developed, and it was a most informal place. I couldn’t figure out how it got there. The family that ran it was Chinese and, believe it or not, they spoke virtually no English and virtually no Spanish. They were fishes out of water, to be sure. It turned out that they were sent there (by whom, I don’t know) to start and run this restaurant. For the first time, I realized that Chinese restaurants are like Chabad Houses – they are run by families, and they are located where some central power tells them to go, and am sure gives them a little seed money at a high interest rate. Yes, and the menu and the tastes north of Ponce, at the Lotus Room, the Hong Kong, the Shanghai Garden and in Paris……pretty much identical.
Why am I writing about this today? It’s because otherwise I am just twiddling my thumbs, waiting for the results in Alaska and Mississippi. I bet there are Chinese restaurants in Alaska. But in Mississippi? I can just imagine it. Kung pao catfish….fried kung pao catfish, to be a little more precise.
Good luck, Scott Colom. And will the real Mary Peltola please stand up.


























